At 7200 feet, Xining is a perfect entrepôt for travel to Yushu – you can introduce newcomers to Tibet through Kumbum monastery, the birthplace of Je Tsonkapa (founder of the Gelugpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism). It’s one of the 5 big Gelug monasteries, and its support by the national government gives it a kind of museum status and quality. For the non-religious minded the surrounding area is great shopping. For the adventurous there is Qinghai Lake (Kokonor, Tib.), where the famous lama Phagpa spent many years in retreat.
But we are not here to tour, so what makes Xining something short of fun is its user-friendly quality. You can get a Caesar salad here. Last burger before Tibet.
Flying to Yushu makes it is possible to actually spend a few days here without have the ordeal of the kind of travel we did before (as recently as last year)– driving overland in two stages: one day, a 3 hour jaunt to Gong He (600 m higher). And the second day about 14 hours, almost all of which is over 4000 meters (13000 ft), being brought down by nausea or migraine-like headaches. 4000 meters is what I think of as “the death zone.”
I used to think that the two eternal truths of traveling to Yushu were: 1) the roads were better last year and 2) this is my last trip.
But tomorrow we are actually flying –and despite my romance for the days of yore, I view this as a very positive development. Acclimitization to 3500 m (Yushu) is much easier than two days on the road at 4000 m. By the time we get to Surmang at 4000 m, everyone will be acclimatized. I hope.
Ok. Waitress, where’s the balsamic vinaigrette dressing?
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Lee, Thank you for this blog and for what you're doing. The story of your first journey and bringing the salts to Surmang is very moving. Now another important journey! Love, Carolyn
ReplyDeleteHas anyone considered if the 3 Gorges Dam could be causing earthquakes?
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